After being assured Becky would only have to be in the car 30 mins; a Dubious Becky & Excited Philip take off for the loch. (the Sostman's decided to pass on another wonderful left lane car adventure; instead they're going to hop on/hop off - that's their adventure to tell)
True to his word, the Frenchs' arrive at Trossch's Pier, 30 mins later, just in time to run to the boat. This beautiful sparkling loch & craggy hills is the home of Rob Roy (think England's Robin Hood) & is the setting for Sir Walter Scott's "lady of the Lake."
Finally, I got to wear the long underwear, gloves, wool vest, scarves I packed & hauled across 2 countries. The water temperature was about 38 & the air temperature only a few degrees colder.
The weather in Scotland is the most variable of any place I can remember. A difference of 15-20 miles can change from sun to rain to mist.
Returning to Bridge of Allen, we stopped at Doune Castle, a medieval castle - home of the Duke of Albany in the 1300's. Only 1 room is restored to the original glory but the other rooms are in excellent condition; provided you are willing to climb many, many narrow dark & twisted stairs. We were willing - we did. The castle had only 2 other visitors, no guides; it was easy to imagine the royal family living at the castle & the ingenious means they took to protect itself during times of danger.
This is ending our last full day in Scotland - land of many contrasts, images of clans & tartans, whiskey & porridge, bagpipes & heather & the friendliest people in the world . I can't wait to come back.
Last Day
May 19 - On our final day we went in different directions.
The Frenches roamed at will through Doune Castle, (pictures coming soon via Blackberry), and the Sostmans toured The Church of the Holy Rood (Cross) in Stirling.
Go down this street to the town of Stirling, up this street to the castle above (it's hard to appreciate how steep these road are:
The Frenches roamed at will through Doune Castle, (pictures coming soon via Blackberry), and the Sostmans toured The Church of the Holy Rood (Cross) in Stirling.
Go down this street to the town of Stirling, up this street to the castle above (it's hard to appreciate how steep these road are:
Note to our readers
May 19 - Our last day
Due to some technical problems connecting to the internet, Laurrie was unable to post to the blog the last two days, but Becky saved the day by using her Blackberry.
But now that Laurrie is back online, re-read yesterday's post, as pictures have been added of Muthill (the scene of the frightening cemetery incarceration), of Edradour, the quaint little whiskey distillery, and of Drummond Gardens. We also added a picture of the Queen's summer place at Balmoral to the post from May 17. She really was expecting me, but since I was traveling with commoners, I paid the admission fee too, to make everyone less uncomfortable.
Today Phil & Becky are off to take a boat on a nearby loch, and Jim & Laurrie are off to Stirling center to shop & tour.
Due to some technical problems connecting to the internet, Laurrie was unable to post to the blog the last two days, but Becky saved the day by using her Blackberry.
But now that Laurrie is back online, re-read yesterday's post, as pictures have been added of Muthill (the scene of the frightening cemetery incarceration), of Edradour, the quaint little whiskey distillery, and of Drummond Gardens. We also added a picture of the Queen's summer place at Balmoral to the post from May 17. She really was expecting me, but since I was traveling with commoners, I paid the admission fee too, to make everyone less uncomfortable.
Today Phil & Becky are off to take a boat on a nearby loch, and Jim & Laurrie are off to Stirling center to shop & tour.
18.05.08 Sunday Trekking
Today, our short & scenic drive from Bridge of Allen to Pitlochry started with Laurrie & I being locked in the Muthill cemetery. We stopped to look at a ruined church. While we were wandering through the graves; someone padlocked the gate. With a great deal of dignity, on a very busy street, we climbed over a 6' stone/picket fence. Strange experience! Picture here is of Muthill's high street.
Resuming our journey we followed an old Roman road. As we entered the central highlands, we were again amazed at how extensive the range of heather. It covers everything from the moorlands to the tops of the highlands. It becomes so dense & woody, controlled burns are required to keep the fields open for sheep & hunters.
From the highlands we would dip down into stands of magnificent spruces, their blue green coloring occasionally broken up by brilliant giant red beeches.
Besides the million sheep, some highland cattle; there are lots of brillant colored pheasant. Philip is the only one among us to see a black pheasant. No amount of explaining about the sun being behind the bird, making it appear black has dimmed his enthusiasm for spotting the rare & unknown black pheasant.
Whoops-you can't get there from here. Our Roman Road suddenly ended due to modern day construction. (Scotland signage leaves much to be desired.) After backtracking we finally arrive at our destination (with the driver still relative calm) only to find ourselves in the middle of a bike rally with most of the streets closed.
By sheer dumb luck, we find our goal, Edradour, Scotland's smallest distillery.The tour was interesting. The making of whiskey is almost identical to Kentucky bourbon. Barley is used instead of corn.Their fermenting barrels are made from Oregon wood & aging barrels come from Kentucky bourbon.
Heading back to Sterling, we pass mile after mile of stone fences. Some of the fences go straight up incredibly steep hills seemingly to disappear into the clouds.
Diesel is expensive,about $12 a gallon.
Our last stop of the day is the Drummond Castle Gardens. Very formal & a bit bizarre unless you crave oddly shaped trees & shrubs. (given the trimming the deer are giving my gardens; I gazed a 2nd time at the Drummond Gardens with renewed interest). Some more pictures of these incredible gardens are below:
And here's one of the two castle heaps at Drummond:
Well we're back to our temporary home. Time to sign off.
17.05.08 Tea with the Queen
When we left our Stirling B&B this morning; we were headed for the Whiskey Trail.(those of us in the "know", or who read guide books, know not to refer to Scotch as Scotch; but whiskey)
In any case, I digress...off we went in our Ford chariot. (I'd like to make note that Jim & Philip mastered driving on the left. Laurrie & I no longer need valium in large doses.) Sterling is located in the lowlands which is rolling hills, lochs, quaint villages, brilliantly blinding yellow canola fields, dozens of roundabouts.
An hour later we entered the highlands, massive rock formations appearing to lift from the forest ledges & valley floors, covered with heather, grasses, sheep & rock.
The roads narrowed & began twisting & turning. For several miles we traveled a 1-lane road; which permitted 2 way traffic. There were pullovers in case we encountered another vehicle-we did.
Unfortunately we discovered most cooperages & distilleries are closed on the weekend. After a quick look at the map; we
headed for Balmoral & tea with the Queen. (Laurrie assured us the Queen was expecting her - could be but I noticed she too paid her 7£ to enter the grounds)
Returning to Stirling, we visited with our hosts, Linda & Colin then headed into the village for pub food. I'll let Laurrie describe the meal, as it was a favorite.
In any case, I digress...off we went in our Ford chariot. (I'd like to make note that Jim & Philip mastered driving on the left. Laurrie & I no longer need valium in large doses.) Sterling is located in the lowlands which is rolling hills, lochs, quaint villages, brilliantly blinding yellow canola fields, dozens of roundabouts.
An hour later we entered the highlands, massive rock formations appearing to lift from the forest ledges & valley floors, covered with heather, grasses, sheep & rock.
The roads narrowed & began twisting & turning. For several miles we traveled a 1-lane road; which permitted 2 way traffic. There were pullovers in case we encountered another vehicle-we did.
Unfortunately we discovered most cooperages & distilleries are closed on the weekend. After a quick look at the map; we
headed for Balmoral & tea with the Queen. (Laurrie assured us the Queen was expecting her - could be but I noticed she too paid her 7£ to enter the grounds)Returning to Stirling, we visited with our hosts, Linda & Colin then headed into the village for pub food. I'll let Laurrie describe the meal, as it was a favorite.
A day in Edinburgh
May 16 - we took the train to Edinburgh, toured the old city with its deep dark alleys and closes, and narrow winding streets. We saw Edinburgh castle and wonderful views of the Firth of Forth and the Kingdom of Fife from the castle heights:
The Edinburgh Botanical Garden was a highlight!
The Edinburgh Botanical Garden was a highlight!
The Tudor Rose & The Stuart Thistle
May 15 - Stirling Castle looms in the distance above our Bed & Breakfast. It rises above the River Forth and the plains and town below, and straddles the highlands to the north and the lowlands to the south. Battles for independence from England were fought again & again here, sieges staged, heroic feats performed, and kings and queens reigned, including Mary Queen of Scots ... and the Rose & the Thistle, the union of an English queen (the rose) and a Scottish king (the thistle) that finally united Britain & Scotland in an uneasy but peaceful United Kingdom.
Pictures can't capture the impressive castle compound, but here's our wonderfully entertaining and informative Scottish guide:
We also climbed the Wallace monument, a memorial to their great independence fighter for Scottish freedom in the early 1300's (think Mel Gibson ... Braveheart.... go out and rent it now). E-mail Phil for an exact count of the number of impossibly narrow stone steps to the top of this 5 story structure. He will also give you a count of the number of steps coming down. 
Here's the town below from the heights of the Wallace Monument:
We also drove to Falkirk and took a boat through the Falkirk Wheel. It's a giant contraption that replaced 8 locks on the river canal between Edinburgh and Glasgow in 2002. It lifts not just the river boat, but the entire slough of water the boat is in ... I mean, lifts it in a giant arc high above, and you're sitting in a boat in water with nothing but sky and horizon in front of you, hundreds of feet in the air. At the same time a descending boat is being arced below you. Really weird. No pictures of this adventure, but once again we had a delightful Scottish guide who told stories we couldn't understand, and mimicked the Queen of England pretty snarkily.
Tomorrow to Edingburgh.
Pictures can't capture the impressive castle compound, but here's our wonderfully entertaining and informative Scottish guide:
We also climbed the Wallace monument, a memorial to their great independence fighter for Scottish freedom in the early 1300's (think Mel Gibson ... Braveheart.... go out and rent it now). E-mail Phil for an exact count of the number of impossibly narrow stone steps to the top of this 5 story structure. He will also give you a count of the number of steps coming down. 
Here's the town below from the heights of the Wallace Monument:
We also drove to Falkirk and took a boat through the Falkirk Wheel. It's a giant contraption that replaced 8 locks on the river canal between Edinburgh and Glasgow in 2002. It lifts not just the river boat, but the entire slough of water the boat is in ... I mean, lifts it in a giant arc high above, and you're sitting in a boat in water with nothing but sky and horizon in front of you, hundreds of feet in the air. At the same time a descending boat is being arced below you. Really weird. No pictures of this adventure, but once again we had a delightful Scottish guide who told stories we couldn't understand, and mimicked the Queen of England pretty snarkily.
Tomorrow to Edingburgh.
Bridge of Allan, Stirling, Scotland
May 14 - We arrived! There was some angst as we motored up the M9 (on the left side of the highway) in our rented car, with absolutely NO CLUE how to find this lovely, charming town where our B&B is located. Okay, not angst, but actual hurling of objects in the car, screaming epithets and having panic attacks. But we arrived, and we are well and truly hosted in a beautiful inn-like home above the high street in Bridge of Allan. Here are some views from our room:
14.05.08 Hanging at Schiphol
Suitcases packed, left in Nessie's good care; we head for the markets - Flea & Flower. Whoops, Becky forgets her Bling! Everyone else stops at the flea mart; Becky trudges back to our starting point. Laurrie buys a backscratcher; Becky's loaded with kitch.The men manned the cafe seats & enjoyed watching the world pass by. Then onto the flower mart; kind of suprising; mostly bulbs & plants. . . . thought we'd see loads of fresh cut flowers - nope.
Goodbye, Nessie, our hostess at the Amsterdam Garden View B & B. We had a lovely time!
Now we're waiting to check in on Easy Jet & go on to Scotland. After 5 days in Amsterdam; there's a sense of familarity. Hard to believe we were so disoriented the 1st morning.
13.5.08 Becky's Musings
Hard to believe but it's our last full day in Amsterdam. Have I enjoyed it - Yes! Would I come back - Yes! What stands out in my mind? - friendly people, bicycles and hooks. Friendly people ... well that's obvious - either you're friendly or you're not. Amsterdammers are wonderful - smiling, joking and seem to want you to enjoy your time in their city. Bicycles ... if there are 700,000 Amsters; there are 1,000,000 bikes. And not those speedo racing types. We're talking the old Huffy Uprights. We see people in suits, highheels, evening dress - biking through out the city. Note for the uninitiated- Bikes Rule! Everyone gives way to bikes and they stop for no one or no other form or transportation.
Hooks ... now here's an interesting concept. Even in new houses; everything is built up in very narrow spaces. Not possible to move in a bed or a piano or washing machine - no, instead you lower the building hook from the top floor and everything is winched upward and in through the windows.
Today, after leaving Laurrie & Jim at the Van Gogh Museum, Philip and I toured a diamond cutting facility - unfortunately no free samples - but the tour was informative and VERY secure. We viewed the diamonds in locked rooms with guards who could see into the room. The Van Gogh musem was a treat and oh by the way; it's pronounced Faun Xhoxgch (gutteral roll or think whooping cough)
Well we're off to eat at an Argentine restaurant - food here is wonderful but nothing that screams Dutch. Amsterdam has long been a port city, for centuries, so many, many cultures are merged and their food relects the variety.
I hope Laurrie and I have given you a taste of the city - come see for yourself. We highly recommend it.
Hooks ... now here's an interesting concept. Even in new houses; everything is built up in very narrow spaces. Not possible to move in a bed or a piano or washing machine - no, instead you lower the building hook from the top floor and everything is winched upward and in through the windows.
Today, after leaving Laurrie & Jim at the Van Gogh Museum, Philip and I toured a diamond cutting facility - unfortunately no free samples - but the tour was informative and VERY secure. We viewed the diamonds in locked rooms with guards who could see into the room. The Van Gogh musem was a treat and oh by the way; it's pronounced Faun Xhoxgch (gutteral roll or think whooping cough)
Well we're off to eat at an Argentine restaurant - food here is wonderful but nothing that screams Dutch. Amsterdam has long been a port city, for centuries, so many, many cultures are merged and their food relects the variety.
I hope Laurrie and I have given you a taste of the city - come see for yourself. We highly recommend it.
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